By Hannah Kosmas
Stefano F. Secchi (Beta Lambda–Southern Methodist ’03)has been surrounded by incredible food since childhood. The Italo-American chef grew up in suburban Dallas but spent close to half his year traveling with his Sardinian father to the homeland, where he fell in love with traditional Italian gastronomy – more specifically, pasta. On a trip to Bologna as a child, he tasted tortellini in brodo for the first time – an experience so memorable he attributes his decision of career to it.
Secchi studied at SMU for his undergrad, where he joined Kappa Alpha Order, and continues to embody the fraternity’s core ideal of excellence in his cooking. After university he graduated from the Culinary Institute of America, then spent several years in northern Italy studying with masters of the cuisine: Davide Palluda, Laura Morandi, and Masimo Bottura. After perfecting his art, Secchi returned to America and opened his first restaurant, Rezdôra, the Modenese word for “grandmother” and is inspired by the warm, comforting food of Emilia-Romagna. The cozy little NYC osteria seats only 60 people but quickly became a fan favorite for those seeking an authentic Italian dining experience, and in 2019 it earned a Michelin star.
Now, Secchi is coming up on the one-year anniversary of his sophomore Manhattan spot. Massara, meaning “matriarch” in the Campanian dialect, focuses on the ocean-based recipes of Secchi’s family from southern Italy. The menu is centered around quality ingredients like fresh seafood and vegetables sourced from farmer’s markets, cooked on a wood-fired grill and oven. The star of the show, however, is the pizzette, made with a decades-old sourdough starter that Secchi brought back from a trip to Campania as a child. Critics have raved over Rezdôra’s sister restaurant, who has double the seating space without losing any of the ambiance or quality dining experience. The reviews all gush about the fantastic quality and selection of wines, the innovative pasta dishes that put a modern spin on traditional Italian recipes, and the decadent dessert options, but Stefano himself has a special favorite menu item: the Caffe Sospeso. This uniquely hospitable concept lets you order a coffee both for yourself and another customer, embracing the Italian generosity that we have come to know and love at Secchi’s restaurants.
